Beer in Hungary: history, traditions and breweries
A wine country with a long beer history – and with a toasting custom found nowhere else.
History
Beer has a long history in Hungary: the Hungarian word “sör” is so old that it was probably borrowed before the Hungarian conquest in the 9th century. For a long time, however, wine remained the most important drink.
In 1848 Leopold Hirschfeld founded a brewery in Pécs, and in 1854 Peter Schmidt opened one of the country’s first large breweries in Buda.
In 1862 Anton Dreher, the inventor of Vienna lager, bought a brewery in Kőbánya, then on the edge of Pest. Beneath the district lay the cool cellars of an old quarry – ideal for lager. Before the Second World War Dreher dominated the Hungarian beer market.
After the war the breweries were nationalised; the Borsodi brewery was founded in Bőcs in 1973. After 1989 international groups took over the big brands.
Since the 2010s there has been a lively craft beer scene with many small breweries, beer festivals and bars, especially in Budapest.
Traditions and drinking culture
Many Hungarians do not clink glasses with beer. The custom goes back to a legend: Austrian officers are said to have clinked beer glasses in 1849 after the execution of the 13 Martyrs of Arad. People vowed not to clink beer glasses for 150 years.
In Budapest the “romkocsma”, ruin bars in old courtyards and empty buildings in the Jewish quarter, are popular. The toast – with wine or pálinka – is “Egészségedre!”, to your health.
Fun facts
- The 150 years of the vow would have ended in 1999 – yet many Hungarians still do not clink glasses with beer.
- Kőbánya means “quarry”: beneath this Budapest district lie miles of cellars where beer used to be stored.
- Anton Dreher was the son of the brewer of Schwechat near Vienna and brewed the first Vienna lager there in 1841.
- Around 90% of the beer drunk in Hungary is pale lager, in Hungarian “világos”.
Typical beer styles
- Lager (Világos)
- Dark lager (Barna)
- Bock
- Craft beer of all styles
Beer cities and their stories
Budapest
In 1862 Anton Dreher bought a brewery in Kőbánya; the cellars of the old quarry were perfect for lagering. Today Budapest is also known for its ruin bars and craft beer bars.
Pécs
Leopold Hirschfeld founded a brewery here in 1848. Pécsi Sörfőzde is one of the oldest breweries in Hungary; its best-known beer is Szalon.
Sopron
This town on the Austrian border is the home of Soproni. Julius Lenck founded the brewery in 1895.
Bőcs
The Borsodi brewery has brewed in the north-east of the country since 1973.
Breweries and their stories
Dreher
Anton Dreher took over the brewery in Kőbánya in 1862. Before the Second World War Dreher dominated the Hungarian beer market.
Known for: Dreher Classic, Arany Ászok
Pécsi Sörfőzde
Founded by Leopold Hirschfeld. It is known for its Szalon beer.
Known for: Szalon
Soproni
Founded by Julius Lenck; today it belongs to Heineken.
Known for: Soproni
Borsodi
One of the largest breweries in the country, known for pale lager.
Known for: Borsodi Világos
Timeline
- 1848Pécs
Leopold Hirschfeld founds a brewery in Pécs – today the home of Szalon.
- 1849whole country
After the execution of the 13 Martyrs of Arad, Austrian officers are said to have clinked beer glasses. Since then many Hungarians do not clink glasses with beer.
- 1854Budapest
Peter Schmidt opens one of Hungary’s first large breweries in Buda.
- 1862Budapest
Anton Dreher buys a brewery in Kőbánya. The cellars of the old quarry are ideal for lagering.
- 1895Sopron
Julius Lenck founds the Soproni brewery in Sopron.
- 1973Bőcs
The Borsodi brewery is founded in Bőcs.
- 2010sBudapest
A craft beer scene emerges; ruin bars and beer festivals shape Budapest.