Beer in France: history, traditions and breweries
The wine country has a strong beer tradition in the north and in Alsace – and a famous beer scientist.
History
The Gauls already brewed beer, the “cervoise”. In the Middle Ages Saint Arnulf of Metz became a patron saint of brewers: legend has it that he advised people to drink beer rather than water.
Beer has been brewed for centuries in Alsace and in the north near the Belgian border. Meteor in Hochfelden traces itself back to 1640, and in 1664 Jérôme Hatt founded the brewery in Strasbourg that became Kronenbourg. To this day a large share of French beer comes from Alsace.
After the lost war of 1870–71, Louis Pasteur wanted French beer to become better than German beer. He studied fermentation, and in 1876 his “Études sur la bière” showed how microorganisms spoil beer. Beers brewed by his method were to be called “bières de la revanche nationale” – beers of national revenge.
Around 1900 France still had thousands of breweries, most of them in the north. The two world wars and many mergers left only a few.
In the north the Duyck brewery in Jenlain kept bière de garde alive and in the late 1970s helped to revive interest in French specialty beers. Today France has more than 2,000 breweries.
Traditions and drinking culture
In a café you order “un demi”, a 25-centilitre glass (about 8.5 fl oz), or a “panaché”, beer mixed with lemonade. In the north and in Alsace the “Picon bière” is popular: beer with a dash of Amer Picon, a bitter orange liqueur.
The word “brasserie” originally simply meant “brewery”. Many Paris brasseries were founded by Alsatians who had moved to Paris after 1871.
Fun facts
- In 1871 Pasteur visited the Whitbread brewery in London and, under the microscope, found an infecting organism in the yeast of its porter.
- On Corsica the Pietra brewery has been brewing a beer with chestnut flour since 1996.
- The number in the name Kronenbourg 1664 is the year the brewery was founded in Strasbourg.
- “Bière de garde” means “beer for keeping”: it was brewed in the cool months and drunk in summer.
- When the remains of Saint Arnulf were carried to Metz in the 7th century, a single jug of beer is said to have been enough for all the weary bearers.
Typical beer styles
- Bière de garde
- Saison
- Bière de Noël
- Panaché
- Chestnut beer
- Blonde and ambrée
Beer cities and their stories
Strasbourg
The brewery known today as Kronenbourg was founded here in 1664. It takes its name from the Cronenbourg district, where it moved in the 19th century; today it brews in Obernai.
Hochfelden
The Meteor family brewery traces itself back to 1640 and is one of the oldest independent breweries in France. It has been called Meteor since 1925.
Jenlain
The Duyck family has been brewing in this village near the Belgian border since 1922. Its bière de garde became the model for the style.
Lille
Capital of the north, whose farmhouse breweries created bière de garde: brewed in winter and spring and stored until summer.
Chamalières
After 1871, at the small Kuhn brewery near Clermont-Ferrand, Louis Pasteur tested his ideas for cleaner beer.
Paris
Pasteur researched fermentation here. The city of brasseries now has many small breweries again.
Furiani (Corsica)
The Pietra brewery has been brewing an amber beer with chestnut flour since 1996. The name comes from the founder’s home village, Pietraserena.
Metz
Saint Arnulf, one of the patron saints of brewers, is buried here. Legend has it that a single jug of beer was enough for everyone who carried his remains to Metz.
Breweries and their stories
Kronenbourg
Jérôme Hatt founded the brewery in Strasbourg. The beer “1664” recalls the year it was founded. Today Kronenbourg belongs to the Carlsberg Group and is one of the largest breweries in France.
Known for: Kronenbourg 1664, 1664 Blanc
Meteor
Family brewery in Alsace, owned by the Haag family for generations.
Known for: Meteor Pils
Brasserie Duyck
Léon Duyck founded the brewery. From the late 1940s it bottled its bière de garde and made the style known throughout France.
Known for: Jenlain Ambrée
Pietra
Corsican brewery whose amber beer is brewed with chestnut flour. The chestnuts help the head last and give the beer its golden colour.
Known for: Pietra, Colomba
Timeline
- 7th c.Metz
The remains of Saint Arnulf are brought to Metz. Legend has it that a single jug of beer is enough for all the bearers.
- 1640Hochfelden
The family brewery in Hochfelden in Alsace, one of France’s oldest independent breweries, traces itself back to this year.
- 1664Strasbourg
Jérôme Hatt founds the brewery in Strasbourg that is later called Kronenbourg. The beer “1664” recalls the year.
- 1871Chamalières
Louis Pasteur tests his ideas for purer beer at the small Kuhn brewery.
- after 1871Paris
Many Alsatians move to Paris and open brasseries. The word originally simply means “brewery”.
- 1876Paris
Pasteur publishes his “Études sur la bière” and shows that microorganisms spoil beer.
- 19th c.Lille
Farmhouse breweries in the north create bière de garde: brewed in winter and stored until summer.
- 1922Jenlain
Léon Duyck founds his brewery in Jenlain. Its bière de garde becomes the model of the style.
- 1996Furiani (Corsica)
On Corsica the Brasserie Pietra brews an amber beer with chestnut flour.