Beer in Japan: history, traditions and breweries
In Japan beer is now the most popular alcoholic drink – precisely brewed and served ice-cold.
History
In the 17th and 18th centuries the Dutch were the only Europeans allowed to live and trade on the small island of Dejima in Nagasaki. Beer reached Japan through them.
In the mid-19th century the scholar Kawamoto Kōmin is said to have been the first person to brew beer in Japan, following instructions from Dutch books.
In 1869–70 the American William Copeland founded the Spring Valley Brewery in Yokohama, one of Japan’s first breweries. In 1876 the government opened a state brewery in Sapporo, the origin of Sapporo Beer, and in 1889 the forerunner of Asahi was founded in Osaka.
In 1987 Asahi Super Dry set off a boom for particularly dry lagers. In 1994 the minimum production volume for a brewing licence was lowered, which gave rise to “ji-bīru”, local craft beer.
Today hundreds of small breweries brew in Japan. Japanese craft beer often combines local ingredients such as yuzu, sansho pepper or matcha with classic beer styles.
Traditions and drinking culture
After work people toast with “Kanpai!”. Legally, only a drink made with at least 50 percent malt counts as beer. Because of the high beer tax, cheaper beer-like drinks with less malt were created, such as happoshu.
Since 1 October 2026 beer, happoshu and the beer-like drinks of the “third category” have been taxed at the same rate: 54.25 yen per 350 ml (about 11.8 fl oz) can.
Fun facts
- Tokyo’s Ebisu district is named after a beer: the station was built around 1900 to transport Yebisu beer, and the name stuck.
- Sapporo’s red star was the emblem of the authority that developed the island of Hokkaido from 1869.
- The three katakana characters “Ki-Ri-N” are hidden in the mane of the mythical creature on the Kirin label.
- In Japan you don’t pour your own beer: you fill the others’ glasses and let them fill yours.
- Since 1989 a huge golden flame by Philippe Starck has stood on the Asahi headquarters in Tokyo. Because of its shape, locals jokingly call it the “golden turd”.
- In summer, beer gardens open on the rooftops of many department stores.
Typical beer styles
- Dry lager
- Happoshu
- Ji-bīru (craft beer)
- Black lager (kuro)
Beer cities and their stories
Nagasaki (Dejima)
The Dutch lived and traded on the fan-shaped island of Dejima. Through them, the Japanese got to know beer in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Yokohama
William Copeland founded the Spring Valley Brewery here in 1869–70. The Japan Brewery, from which Kirin emerged, was later built on its site.
Sapporo
In 1876 the government opened a brewery here to help develop Hokkaido. The old red-brick building now houses a beer museum.
Tokyo (Ebisu)
The district is named after Yebisu beer, which was brewed here from 1890.
Osaka
The Osaka Brewery, which became Asahi, was founded here in 1889. Asahi Super Dry came onto the market in 1987.
Breweries and their stories
Kirin
Emerged from the Japan Brewery, which took over the site of the Spring Valley Brewery. The mythical kirin on the label is said to bring good luck.
Known for: Kirin Ichiban, Kirin Lager
Sapporo
Grew out of the state brewery of Hokkaido’s development authority; Japan’s oldest beer brand.
Known for: Sapporo Premium, Yebisu
Asahi
With Super Dry (1987) Asahi shaped a whole style of beer. The group now also owns Peroni and Pilsner Urquell.
Known for: Asahi Super Dry
Kiuchi (Hitachino Nest)
The sake brewery has also brewed beer since the 1990s; Hitachino Nest with the owl on its label is known worldwide.
Known for: Hitachino Nest White Ale
Timeline
- 17th c.Nagasaki (Dejima)
On the island of Dejima, the Dutch are the only Europeans allowed to trade. Through them the Japanese get to know beer.
- 1869/70Yokohama
The American William Copeland founds the Spring Valley Brewery, one of Japan’s first breweries.
- 1876Sapporo
The government opens a brewery in Sapporo to develop Hokkaido. Its red star is still the symbol of Sapporo Beer.
- 1885Yokohama
The Japan Brewery, from which Kirin emerges, is founded on the site of the Spring Valley Brewery.
- 1889Osaka
The brewery that becomes Asahi is founded in Osaka.
- 1890Tokyo (Ebisu)
Yebisu beer is brewed in Tokyo. The station built to transport it later gives the whole district its name, Ebisu.
- 1987Osaka
Asahi Super Dry sets off a boom for especially dry lagers.
- 1994whole country
Japan lowers the minimum output for a brewing licence. This gives rise to “ji-bīru”, local craft beer.
- 2026whole country
Since 1 October beer, happoshu and beer-like drinks have been taxed at the same rate.