Beer in Peru: history, traditions and breweries
The Incas already brewed their corn beer, chicha, here – and today a young craft beer scene is growing in Lima and the Andes.
History
Long before the Spanish arrived, the peoples of the Andes brewed chicha, a beer made from corn. For chicha de jora, corn kernels are left to sprout – much like malting barley.
In the Inca Empire chicha played an important role at festivals and ceremonies. Chosen women, the “acllas”, brewed it for the state and the temples.
In 1863 the National Beer Company was founded, which brewed Pilsen Callao. In 1879 the Americans Jacob Backus and John Howard Johnston founded a brewery in Lima that became Peru’s largest brewing group.
Today the big brands such as Cristal, Pilsen Callao and Cusqueña belong to AB InBev. Since the 2010s small breweries have been opening in Lima, Cusco and other cities, often using ingredients from the Andes.
Traditions and drinking culture
Chicha de jora is still brewed in villages and small “chicherías”. A red flag or a bunch of flowers on a pole outside the house shows that fresh chicha is available.
Beer is often shared from a single glass that goes round: whoever gets a pour drinks it and passes on the glass and the bottle. The toast is “¡Salud!”.
Fun facts
- Despite its name, chicha morada is not a beer but a non-alcoholic drink made from purple corn.
- In some areas the corn for chicha used to be chewed first: enzymes in saliva turn the starch into sugar.
- The Backus and Johnston brewery was registered as a company in London in 1889 and only moved its seat to Peru in 1954.
- Cusqueña beer is named after Cusco, the old capital of the Inca Empire.
Typical beer styles
- Chicha de jora
- Lager
- Craft beer of all styles
Beer cities and their stories
Cusco
The old capital of the Incas. Cusqueña beer is named after it, and chicha is still brewed in the villages around it.
Lima
Jacob Backus and John Howard Johnston founded their brewery here in 1879. Today Lima is the centre of Peru’s craft beer scene.
Arequipa
Cusqueña beer comes from the southern brewing company based in Arequipa.
Breweries and their stories
Backus and Johnston
Founded by the Americans Jacob Backus and John Howard Johnston. Today Peru’s largest brewing group, part of AB InBev.
Known for: Cristal
Pilsen Callao
The National Beer Company in Lima’s port brewed Pilsen Callao; Backus took a majority stake in 1994.
Known for: Pilsen Callao
Cusqueña
Beer from southern Peru that came to Backus with the southern brewing company in 2000.
Known for: Cusqueña Dorada, Cusqueña Negra
Timeline
- Inca eraCusco
In the Inca Empire chosen women brew chicha from corn for festivals and ceremonies.
- 1863Lima
The National Beer Company, which brews Pilsen Callao, is founded in the port of Callao near Lima.
- 1879Lima
Jacob Backus and John Howard Johnston found their brewery in Lima.
- 2000Arequipa
With the southern brewing company from Arequipa, Cusqueña joins Backus.
- 2010sLima
Craft breweries open in Lima and Cusco, often using ingredients from the Andes.