Beer in Colombia: history, traditions and breweries
A German brewer whose statue still hears people’s wishes, and an ancient corn beer that almost disappeared after an uprising.
History
Long before the Spanish arrived, the Muisca of the highlands around Bogotá drank chicha: a beer made from sprouted corn, cloudy and slightly sour. Chicha was part of festivals, work and rituals. Even after the conquest it remained the people’s drink – around 1900 Bogotá still had hundreds of chicherías.
Bogotá, 1889. The German immigrant Leo Siegfried Kopp founded a brewery and named it after his homeland: Bavaria. Kopp brewed German-style lager and grew rich. For his workers he had his own neighbourhood built, La Perseverancia – perseverance.
In Bogotá’s Central Cemetery there is still a statue of Leo Kopp, seated and thoughtful. Many people whisper their wishes into its ear – for work, health or luck. The brewer has become a kind of folk saint.
For the brewery, chicha was the big competitor. Beer advertising portrayed it as dirty and dangerous. On 9 April 1948 the politician Jorge Eliécer Gaitán was shot in Bogotá, and the city descended into riots, the “Bogotazo”. The government blamed chicha in part for the violence and severely restricted its production. After that, beer conquered the country.
Bavaria grew into Colombia’s largest brewing group, with brands such as Águila, Club Colombia and Poker. In 2005 SABMiller bought the brewery for several billion dollars. Since 2016 it has belonged to AB InBev.
But chicha has not disappeared. In La Perseverancia, the neighbourhood Leo Kopp once built for his brewers, a chicha festival is held every year. And a young craft beer scene, led by the Bogotá Beer Company, now brews beers with coffee, panela and tropical fruit.
Traditions and drinking culture
In Colombia beer is drunk ice-cold, often from small bottles, at the “tienda” on the corner or in a bar. Many regions have their favourite beer: Águila on the Caribbean coast, Poker in the highlands.
“Refajo”, a mix of beer and sweet red soda, is popular, especially at weekend barbecues. The toast is “¡Salud!”.
Fun facts
- Many people whisper their wishes into the ear of Leo Kopp’s statue in Bogotá’s Central Cemetery.
- Leo Kopp had the La Perseverancia neighbourhood built for his workers – today a chicha festival is held there.
- After the riots of the “Bogotazo” in 1948, the production of chicha was severely restricted.
- Refajo is a mix of beer and red soda.
Typical beer styles
Beer cities and their stories
Bogotá
Leo Kopp founded the Bavaria brewery here in 1889 and built the La Perseverancia neighbourhood for his workers. The capital is also the centre of the Colombian craft beer scene.
Barranquilla
The hot port city on the Caribbean coast is the home of Águila, the beer of the Barranquilla Carnival, one of the largest festivals in South America.
Breweries and their stories
Bavaria
Founded by the German immigrant Leo Siegfried Kopp. Bought by SABMiller in 2005 and part of AB InBev since 2016.
Known for: Club Colombia
Bogotá Beer Company
One of Colombia’s first craft breweries, with pubs in many districts of the city.
Known for: Monserrate Roja
Timeline
- 1889Bogotá
Leo Siegfried Kopp founds the Bavaria brewery in Bogotá.
- 1948Bogotá
After the riots of the “Bogotazo”, the production of chicha is severely restricted.
- 2002Bogotá
The Bogotá Beer Company opens – Colombia gets craft beer.
- 2005whole country
SABMiller buys Bavaria.
- 2016whole country
Bavaria becomes part of AB InBev.